The Bidayuh

Bidayuh Longhouse

Alfred Russel Wallace describes the land or hill dayak houses in the Malay Archipelago which he had the privilege to document the people and their culture in 1850's as' The Dyak houses are all raised on posts, and are often two or three hundred feet long and forty or fifty wide. The floor is always formed of strips split from large Bamboos, so that each may be nearly flat and about three inches wide, and these are firmly tied down with rattan to the joists beneath. When well made, this is a delightful floor to walk upon barefooted, the rounded surfaces of the bamboo being very smooth and agreeable to the feet, while at the same time affording a firm hold. But, what is more important, they form with a mat over them an excellent bed, the elasticity of the Bamboo and its rounded surface being far superior to a more rigid and a flatter floor....These with constant rubbing of the feet and the smoke of years become dark and polished, like walnut or old oak, so that their real material can hardly be recognised. What labour is here saved to a savage whose only tools are an axe and a knife.' Wallace also describes the use of bamboo to make paths over long distances from village to village and to their farms and fields. Suspension bridges over gullies and rivers are also constructed from bamboo and water is transported to the longhouse through conduits also made from this robust grass. Large diameter bamboos are split in half longitudinally and supported on 'crossed sticks of various heights so as to give it a regular fall' Wallace.

St. John, at one time the Secretary to Sir James Brooke, loved journeying into the interior and meeting with the natives and exploring villages. He once went on a trip into the interior with his employer and a traveller by name of Madame Pfeiffer who turned up unexpectedly in 1851 for a visit . St.John observed that the land dayaks hardly walked on the ground around their village as all the longhouses were connected by bamboo walkways. He remarked that since the villagers tossed everything conceivable from their houses into the pits below, it was almost impossible to walk on ground and was best advised to stay above.

The Bidayuh longhouse consists of a longhouse or several longhouses and a main head house called a Barok. Barok is where ceremonies are held and where young men and bachelors reside. The longhouses are for families and when boys come of age, they are sent to stay in the Barok until time when he marries and will then move in with the wife's family in most circumstances. However if his family (ie if his parents are aged or sick or he has many young family members to care for) requires him to return to care for them this is also possible. Newly married couples never make a new home for themselves until much later when with child. The husband if staying with his spouse's family, will be expected to labour for her family.

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The head house has a hearth in the centre of the room where the head trophies are placed. The fire is always kept burning day and night. Ceremonies are often held and can be for anything, from dispelling illness in men and rice (their crop) to birth of child. The Dayaks believe that in all animate object including man and rice, there is a living principle called 'semangat' or 'semungi'. Since religious beliefs in old times were influenced by beliefs in the supernatural, it is therefore believed that sickness is caused by 'a temporary absence, and death by the total departure of this principal from the body.' St.John. Some of these ceremonies are performed to bring back the soul and to secure it. Sickness in man is believed to be caused by spirits or 'antu'. According to St.John, there are 3 incantations that the priestess or priest prepares to rid the spirits. Nyibaiyan, Berobat Pinya; and Barobat Sisab is for restoring health. The ceremonies take place lasting from 2 to 8 days. Some ceremonies assisted by the incantations and continuous playing of drums and gongs throughout the days.

The Bidayuh regard 'semangat' as very much influenced by a greater power. The power of courage and leadership was a beneficial tool for James Brooke. The Land Dayaks admired Brooke's semangat. St.John, accompanying Brooke on a visit to the interior was taken aback upon being subjected to an unexpected greeting, ' A crowd of old women instantly seized us, and pulled off our shoes and stockings and commenced most vigorously washing our feet; this water was preserved to fertilise the fields.' ..' We had to do so many things, and almost all at once: to sprinkle rice about, to pour a little water on each child that was presented to us, until, from force of example, the women and even men insisted upon the same ceremony being performed on them.' The priestess also brought the gentlemen rice for them to spit on and in turn swallowed the morsels with relish. This strange ritual was performed to ensure a good harvest for them, the birth and wellness of children and that their livestock would be plentiful in turn bringing them prosperity. The natives had such high regards for Rajah Brooke and his immediate officers, their presence at the longhouse was considered an auspicious occasion.

Today, these ceremonies are hardly if ever practised. Many of the Bidayuhs or Land Dayaks comprising the Jagoi, Biatah, Bukar-Sadong, Selakau and Lara peoples of West Sarawak are now Christians. The Bidayuhs make up some 8.3% of Sarawak 's population. If you would like to know more about the Bidayuhs, click to www.bidayuh.com

The Iban Peoples

In Sarawak, the dominant tribal groups are the Dayak. Tribal people live in longhouses. There are the Iban (Sea Dayak), and the Bidayuh (Land Dayak).  All of Malaysia’s tribal people feel a strong spiritual connection to the rainforest. The Iban grow rice and fruit, and hunt and fish.
The Ibans form the largest percentage of Sarawak's population, making up some 30% (= 400,000 people). Reputed to be the most formidable headhunters on the island of Borneo, the Ibans of today are a generous, hospitable and placid people. Because of their history as pirates and fishermen, they were conventionally referred to as the "Sea Dayaks".

The Iban is a friendly and hospitable tribe. The majority of Sarawak Ibans, especially in the lowlands, are living mostly in longhouses along the main rivers and their tributaries.
They are Christians, but they still maintain their strong cultural identity and heritage.
The Ibans are also famous for their tuak, a sweet rice wine, which is served during big celebrations and festive occasions.

Please bare in mind, that whenever you visit a longhouse, at the entrance you will be given a glass of tuak for warm welcoming and never say no, because if you resist you are not respecting their kind offer. An Iban boy starts to use the implements of the wood-worker and carver from an early age.
The decorated bamboo containers are sign of a bachelor's affection for a young, unattached women as well as being a mark of his own accomplishment and refinement.
Once an a serious affair started beyond the first largely physical attraction, the young man carves a decorated bamboo container as a permanent token of his affection.
Once married, the Iban groom either moves to his wife's family or the bride moves to the husband's family.

The Dayak Community

In Sarawak, the dominant tribal groups are the Dayak. Tribal people live in longhouses. There are the Iban (Sea Dayak), and the Bidayuh (Land Dayak).  All of Malaysia’s tribal people feel a strong spiritual connection to the rainforest. The Iban grow rice and fruit, and hunt and fish.
The longhouse is the very centre of communal life in Sarawak. There are over 4,500 longhouses in Sarawak. These communal houses, built on stilts, may contain up to 100 individual families in separate 'apartments' built under one long roof. 

The rainforest is home to 27 ethnic groups each with own distinct language and culture. The real longhouse experience begins with the journey upriver. River travel in a perahu - a shallow draught canoe - affords you the pleasure of seeing Sarawak at its best. Longhouses differ slightly from tribe to tribe but share the same basic characteristic. The Iban are the largest tribe in Sarawak and one of three native peoples whose past includes the practice of headhunting.

Heading upstream, your boatman will take you along idyllic waterways with white pebble beaches, under the over-arching branches of tropical hardwoods, whose dense emerald foliage allows through only a dappling of sunlight. As you meander upstream, and your boatman punts through the river's shallows, kingfishers glide past, hornbills fly overhead, and local children dive from the riverbank into the cooling waters.
Longhouse inhabitants are very well known for their hospitality.  It is normal for people to just turn up and expect to be invited in by the headman (gifts are expected in return).  As you arrive at the longhouse, it is customary to be greeted by the longhouse maidens and young men performing traditional dances and playing ceremonial gongs.
At the entrance to the longhouse there is a wooden arch with small baskets made of palm leaves hanging from the top. Offerings such as a few coins or a cigarette are occasionally put into the baskets and help keep evil spirits out of the longhouse. From the moment you step inside the longhouse you will be treated as an honoured guest. Visitors will be offered a glass of tuak - the very palatable local rice wine. Or more often than not, several glasses of tuak will be offered to wash down a banquet of local delicacies. Then your hosts will start beating the gongs. This is the cue for the traditional dance, usually the Ngajat. The inspiration for the graceful movements of the dancers comes from the effortless flight of the hornbill, Sarawak's emblem. Then your newfound friends will enthral you with stories of Sarawak's legendary past. Usually a longhouse party lasts all night. As the sun is eclipsed by the moon, weary from your day's travel, and a night of dancing and feasting, retire to the ruai- a covered verandah - for a good night's sleep.
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